From the A-Bomb Dome and Peace Memorial Museum to the park's monuments and the Peace Bell — a personal guide to Hiroshima's extraordinary memorial landscape and the city's remarkable choice to answer devastation with grace.

This post is the companion to my coverage of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, the A-Bomb Dome, and the Peace Bell — all of which are covered here. If you have not read that post, I encourage you to start there. What follows is about the rest of Hiroshima: the castle, the garden, the food, and the city as it lives and breathes today. Hiroshima is, in the mind of most Western visitors, defined entirely by one morning in August 1945. That is understandable. What happened her

Miyajima Island is one of Japan's three great scenic views — home to the floating torii gate, Itsukushima Shrine, free-roaming sacred deer, and the finest oysters in Hiroshima Prefecture. A complete guide to visiting, eating, and staying overnight.

I have visited many extraordinary places in my life. Japan is different. It is not simply a destination — it is an education in how a society can be simultaneously ancient and modern, disciplined and playful, minimalist and extravagant. I spent close to six weeks traveling through Japan, from the electric energy of Tokyo to the meditative stillness of Kyoto, the sacred quiet of Miyajima and the hard-won peace of Hiroshima, the exhilarating food culture of Osaka, and the quiet

Sagami Bay While many travelers know Atami for its historic hot springs and traditional ryokan, the city also serves as an excellent base for exploring some of Japan's most beautiful coastal and mountain scenery. Between panoramic ocean views, Mount Fuji sightings, a cruise across Lake Ashi, and a surprisingly enchanting glass museum, this day proved to be one of the most visually stunning of my entire Japan journey. Nestled along the coast of Shizuoka Prefecture, Atami has

Experience Furuya Ryokan in Atami, Japan—historic onsen baths, traditional rooms, and seasonal kaiseki dining just outside Tokyo.”

What is the Saphir Odoriko? The next destination in my Japan adventure is the Izu Peninsula, but the adventure started before I set foot in the Shizuoka prefecture. Instead, it began in Tokyo when I boarded the Saphir Odoriko, one of Japan's high speed, luxury trains. If you are traveling in Japan, a ride on one of these premium trains is a must. For between $35 - $60, about the same as many sub par Uber rides, you will sit in an extremely comfortable seat, enjoying the sc

Osaka may be famous as Japan's Kitchen, but the city offers far more than incredible food. The dynamic city of Osaka is one of the largest and most important urban centers in Japan, known for its energy, warmth, and distinct personality. Historically, Osaka developed as a major commercial hub. That legacy is still reflected today in its bustling streets, modern skyline, and role as a center of business and culture. Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street (Longest Covered Shopping Ar

Osaka earned the nickname "Japan's Kitchen" for good reason. After eating my way through the city, these were the five dishes and desserts that stood out most.For suggestions on where to go for the best tempura kaiseki, or where to try local specialities like battera, black ramen, or takoyaki, see my last post. In this post, I'll share five more dishes, including a dancing cheesecake, that brought me closer to achieving a state of kuidaore in Osaka. Matsusakagyu Yakiniku M (

If Tokyo is the modern mind of Japan and Kyoto its cultural heart, then Osaka is unquestionably its stomach. For centuries, ingredients from across the country flowed through this bustling merchant city, shaping a culinary culture so beloved that Osaka earned the nickname "Japan's Kitchen." Even today, food is more than a pastime here—it's part of the city's identity. Yodo River View on Train Ride from Kyoto to Osaka If you're short on time, the great news is that Osaka is le

Kyoto is famous for its temples and shrines, but it is equally celebrated for its food. From refined kaiseki meals and premium wagyu beef to bustling market stalls and traditional sweets, the city offers some of Japan's most memorable dining experiences. Food was one of the reasons I fell in love with Kyoto. The city approaches cooking with the same philosophy that shapes its temples, gardens, and traditional arts: nothing is rushed, nothing is excessive, and every detail mat

Kyoto rewards repeat exploration. Just when you think you have seen its most beautiful temple, another appears around a bend in the road. Just when you believe you have experienced its quietest garden, you stumble upon a place even more serene. While my previous post focused on some of Kyoto's most iconic sights, these are the places that lingered with me longest—from a shimmering golden pavilion and a forest of towering bamboo to a tea ceremony that revealed the beauty hidde

The Journey: Tokyo to Kyoto by Shinkansen I boarded the Shinkansen in Tokyo and headed west toward Kyoto, leaving behind the glass towers and relentless motion of Japan's modern capital for a city shaped by temples, shrines, and more than a thousand years of history. The journey itself felt like part of the experience. Traveling aboard the Shinkansen is one of the quiet pleasures of Japan—an exercise in efficiency, punctuality, and comfort that turns even a cross-country trai

Kyoto: A City that Honors the Past Higashiyama District Kyoto is both a city and one of Japan's two urban prefectures. It is nestled in the heart of Honshu, surrounded by majestic mountains and replete with streets that embody the essence of Old Japan. Takase River In Kyoto, time seemed to move in a different way. It didn't pass, so much as it gathered. It moved with intention, making the pauses between events, events in and of themselves. I could try to describe it by

Kaiseki is the pinnacle of Japanese haute cuisine, refined over centuries in Kyoto and deeply influenced by Zen aesthetics and the formal structure of a Japanese tea ceremony. While it may have roots as a modest, pre-tea meal, today, it is a highly codified, culinary art form where flavor, color, texture, seasonality, and presentation are balanced with ceremonial discipline.

I came to Japan with very few expectations. I wanted to experience the country as it revealed itself rather than chase a checklist of famous sights. Still, there was one exception. I hoped to see Mount Fuji. Like so many travelers before me, I found myself searching the skyline for that unmistakable silhouette, never knowing when—or if—the mountain would choose to appear.I came to Japan with very few expectations. The Legend of Mount Fuij From day one, I was chasing the lege

Tokyo offers no shortage of famous attractions, from ancient temples and bustling neighborhoods to world-class restaurants and dazzling city views. Yet some of my most memorable experiences in the city were the unexpected ones: conquering a fear of heights atop Tokyo Skytree, spending an afternoon surrounded by curious micro pigs, and learning the centuries-old art of repairing broken pottery with gold. Together, these experiences revealed different sides of Tokyo—and perhaps

Tokyo's dining scene is famously international, but no city introduced me to Japanese cuisine more completely than Tokyo itself. During my time in the capital, I explored everything from seasonal omakase menus and handmade soba to charcoal-grilled wagyu and even a restaurant where I caught my own dinner. Together, these meals offered a glimpse into the remarkable diversity, craftsmanship, and regional traditions that define Japanese food culture. Hibiki (Meguro) The first res

One of the greatest gifts of my time in Japan had nothing to do with sightseeing. I spent nearly six weeks in the country because I was fortunate enough to stay with family in Tokyo. Each day I wandered the city as a traveler, marveling at temples, neighborhoods, train stations, and restaurants. Each evening I returned to a dining table filled with conversation, laughter, and home-cooked meals. Those shared meals taught me as much about Japan as any attraction ever could. Meg

The late Anthony Bourdain once remarked, "If I had to eat only in one city for the rest of my life, Tokyo would be it." After spending time exploring Japan's capital, I understand exactly what he meant. And if Tokyo's food culture has a beating heart, I suspect it is Toyosu Market—a place where fishermen, auctioneers, chefs, and diners all converge in a daily ritual shaped by the sea. Toyosu Market Tuna Auction Auction Floor, Toyosu Market Many travelers still know Tokyo's s