Where to Eat in Kona, Hawaii: 4 More Must-Try Restaurants on the Big Island
- The Anonymous Hungry Hippopotamus
- Nov 15, 2024
- 5 min read
Updated: 13 hours ago
Ka‘ūpūlehu Beach in Kailua-Kona
Kona may be famous for coffee, sunshine, and manta rays, but one of the greatest pleasures on Hawaiʻi's west coast happens at the table. (If you're planning a trip to the Big Island, you may also enjoy my guide to the island's black sand beaches, lava landscapes, and scenic drives.)
On any given day you can eat poke made from fish landed that morning, sushi prepared with decades of expertise, a leisurely oceanfront breakfast overlooking Aliʻi Drive, and shave ice descended from traditions brought to the islands by Japanese immigrants more than a century ago.
In my previous article, I shared three of my favorite restaurants in the Kona region. These next stops proved that I had barely scratched the surface. From award-winning poke to some of the freshest seafood on the island, here are four more places worth seeking out while exploring the Big Island.
Umeke's
Umeke's
First up is Umeke's, located in Kona's Brewery Block. You may have seen Umeke's featured on the Food Network's show, Diner's, Drive-Ins and Dives, as did many others. So many others, that Umeke's had to expand to handle the increased crowds.
Kanaka Poke Plate
The restaurant's full name is Umeke's Fish Market and Grill, making what they focus on quite obvious. It's all about the fish. And of the assortment of fish they sell, everyone will agree that poke is king. Chef and founder of Umeke's, Nakoa Pabre, has won various awards and distinctions for his poke, that keeps people coming back.
Poke is a Hawaiian dish made of marinated, raw, fish cubes mixed with various ingredients and served next to white rice. That's correct, it's served next to rice, not on top of it with myriad toppings like you see on the mainland. In other words, while in Hawaii, the poke bowl you may be familiar with, may look unfamiliar.
In the Aloha State, poke actually has deep and traditional roots in Hawaiian culture. The word "poke" means "to slice" or "cut" in Hawaiian, referring to the way that fisherman would cube the fish by cutting against the grain of the meat. They would use whatever reef fish was found and once it was cubed, they would season it with salt, seaweed and/or an algae called limu.
Once large, more advanced fishing fleets began replacing independent fisherman, reef fish were also replaced by deep water fish in poke production. From then until now, the most common poke is made with ahi (tuna), even though restaurants and poke bars (mostly on the mainland) have begun to introduce poke made with salmon and other fish.
Not at Umeke's though.
When my poke plate arrived, I understood immediately why Umeke's has developed such a devoted following. The ahi glistened in the evening light, cut into generous cubes and coated in a marinade that smelled faintly of the ocean. The ogo added a subtle brininess, while Hawaiian chili pepper contributed just enough heat to keep each bite interesting.
Most mainland poke bowls bury the fish beneath mountains of toppings. Traditional Hawaiian poke is different. Here, the fish remains the star.
And at Umeke's, that star shines bright.
Izakaya Shiono
The second restaurant on my list is Izakaya Shiono, also located in the Brewery Block in Kona. The restaurant regularly shows up on lists of best places to eat on the Big Island, due to their fresh seafood and expert sushi preparation.
The restaurant felt more like a neighborhood izakaya than a tourist destination. Conversations drifted through the dining room, plates moved steadily from kitchen to table, and nearly every guest seemed to know exactly what they intended to order.
That confidence is usually a good sign.
Oysters with Ponzu and Scallions
To start, a new friend and I shared some fresh oysters, made even more delicious by the citrusy flavors imparted by the ponzu.
Next, we moved on to some nigiri, which is sashimi served over individual, bite-sized portions of rice.
We ordered tako (octopus), hamachi (yellowtail) and kanpachi (amberjack).
Every piece of fish was expertly cut, served with perfect proportioned rice, and simply delicious.
Gyoza
Though not originally intending to, we also ordered the gyoza because we were told that it was one of the restaurant's specialities.
The gyoza dumplings were stuffed with chicken and pork, steamed and then pan fried for a crispy and soft contrast that I love. One bite and I understood why they were on almost everyone's table.
Island Lava Java
Island Lava Java
Some restaurants are memorable because of the food. Others are memorable because they place you exactly where you want to be. Island Lava Java belongs to the second category.
Located directly along Aliʻi Drive, the restaurant opens onto views of the Pacific. During breakfast, joggers pass by, surfers head toward the water, and visitors begin filtering into the shops that line the shoreline. It feels unmistakably Hawaiian.
Big Island Basics Plate
Island Lava Java is best known for their brunch, which is why I visited during the morning.
My Big Island Breakfast Plate came with two eggs, which I requested over-medium, honey wheat toast, Portuguese sausage (or bacon), and french fries (which they kindly swapped for their breakfast potatoes made with bell peppers, one of the very few foods I don't enjoy).
The food at Island Lava Java is consistent. The staff is lovely and welcoming and the vibe is very much relaxed, which pretty much sums up the Aloha Spirit that Hawaii is famous for.
The restaurant also has a view that the island of Hawai'i is famous for. Island Lava Java is located in a prime spot in Kona, in the center of Ali'i Drive, an area known for its shopping, bars, restaurants and beaches.
Once you are done with your meal, carve out time to stroll along the beach.
You can also just stand at the breakwater and watch the waves ebb and flow, which I find very meditative and relaxing.
Ululani's Shave Ice
Most people think shave ice is simply a snow cone.
It isn't. The difference begins with the ice itself. Snow cones are made with crushed ice that remains crunchy. Hawaiian shave ice is shaved so finely that it resembles freshly fallen snow. The texture absorbs syrup rather than simply allowing it to run through the cup. The result is softer, smoother, and far more refreshing.
Hawaiian shave ice was introduced to the islands by Japanese immigrants who came to work on sugar and pineapple plantations. They introduced a concept that began in the seventh century called kakigori or "shaved ice." In order to cool off under the hot Hawaiian sun, they would shave flakes from large blocks of ice, coat them in sugar and then eat them.
In Pidgin, the icy treat became known as "shave" (as opposed to "shaved") ice, and it is still referred to this way today. Today however, there is a machine that shaves the ice until it has a powdery consistency.
The ice is then molded into shape ...
... and liberally doused with flavored syrup that is as brightly colored as it is sweet.
Debate rages about who has the best shave ice on the islands. Ululani's is a top contender on the Big Island, as well as in Maui. The shop uses a very fine shave of ice and sweetens their syrups with pure cane sugar and the result is a great cup of shave ice. (That said, I think there are some shave ice shops on Oahu that are even better, but that is a story for an entirely different series about Hawaii.)
Kona had given me fresh poke, oceanfront breakfasts, sushi, and shave ice beneath swaying palms. Now it was time to leave the dry western coast behind. Ahead lay rainforests, waterfalls, black lava fields, and the road to Hilo. The journey across The Big Island was only beginning.
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