Seville Travel Guide: Cathedral, Alcázar, Plaza de España and the Magic of Santa Cruz
- The Anonymous Hungry Hippopotamus
- Mar 15, 2024
- 7 min read
Updated: 3 days ago
Every city has something that stays with you long after you leave.
In Barcelona, it was the architecture.
In Madrid, it was the food.
In Seville, it was the air itself.
I arrived during orange blossom season, when thousands upon thousands of orange trees were in bloom throughout the city. Their fragrance drifted through plazas, alleyways, gardens, and courtyards, creating a perfume so intoxicating that I found myself slowing down simply to enjoy it.
That scent became inseparable from my memories of Seville.
Of course, the city offers far more than beautiful aromas. Seville is home to the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, one of Spain's most spectacular royal palaces, and some of the most beautiful public spaces I encountered anywhere in Europe. It is a city where Christian, Jewish, and Islamic influences coexist in fascinating ways, creating layers of history that reveal themselves around nearly every corner.
Exploring Seville was equal parts adventure and enchantment. These are the places that captured my attention most and the reasons this remarkable city ultimately captured my heart.
Metropol Parasol
Before discussing the major landmarks, I need to mention the city itself. Some destinations impress because of a handful of famous attractions. Seville impressed me simply by existing.
Alleyways of Barrio Santa Cruz
Whether the streets were nearly empty in the early morning, or bustling with life later in the day ...
Giralda
... whether I was gazing up at La Giralda ...
... (especially during golden hour) ...
Iglesia de San Pedro
... passing centuries-old churches ...
Fuente de Puerta de Jerez
... admiring elegant fountains ...
Monumento a la Inmaculada Concepcion
... or discovering yet another beautiful plaza, Seville possessed a charm that seemed effortless.
The city's beauty reveals itself gradually. It appears in quiet alleyways lined with whitewashed buildings. It appears in hidden courtyards. It appears in the rhythm of daily life.
And everywhere you look, there are orange trees.
They surround fountains. They fill plazas.
They line streets. They spill into parks. During much of the year they are simply part of the scenery. During orange blossom season, however, they transform the city.
The blossoms, known locally as azahar, release a fragrance that drifts through virtually every outdoor space in Seville. I have visited many beautiful cities. Very few have ever smelled beautiful. Seville does.
Torre de Oro
Eventually my wandering brought me to the banks of the Guadalquivir River, where my formal sightseeing began. Standing guard over the waterfront is the Torre de Oro, or Tower of Gold. Constructed in the 12th century by the Almohads, the tower originally served as a military watchtower protecting the city's river access and docks.
As for the origin of its name, I encountered two explanations. One suggests that gold from the New World was once stored here. The other claims that the tower's original tile covering reflected sunlight so brilliantly that it appeared to glow like gold. Whatever the truth, the structure remains one of Seville's most recognizable landmarks and one of the last surviving remnants of the Moorish walls that once encircled the city.
From here I boarded a boat to see Seville from a different perspective. The leisurely cruise provided a welcome change of pace and offered beautiful views of the city's skyline from the water. The river cruise revealed a side of Seville that many visitors overlook.
Torre Sevilla
One of the first structures to catch my attention was Torre Sevilla. Completed in 2015, the 37-story skyscraper is the tallest building in Andalusia. Its sleek profile has earned it the nickname "The Lipstick Tower" among locals. The contrast between this modern structure and the city's historic architecture was striking.
Puente del Alamillo
The cruise also carried me beneath several impressive bridges spanning the Guadalquivir. My favorite was unquestionably the Puente del Alamillo. Designed for the 1992 Seville Expo, the bridge's dramatic angled pylon rises above the river like a giant harp string suspended in midair. It is both elegant and unmistakably modern.
Plaza de España
Of all the outdoor spaces I visited in Seville, none impressed me more than Plaza de España.
Built as the centerpiece of the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, the plaza is enormous. Covering an area roughly equivalent to five football fields, it feels less like a square and more like a monumental stage set.
Everywhere you look there are details competing for your attention: colorful azulejo tiles, elegant bridges, soaring towers, sweeping colonnades, and a grand fountain anchoring the center of the space.
Canals of the Plaza de España
My favorite feature, however, was the canal. Visitors can rent rowboats and drift beneath the bridges, which has earned the plaza the nickname "The Venice of Seville." Standing there, surrounded by the architecture and reflected light dancing across the water, the entire scene felt almost impossibly romantic.
It is not difficult to understand why filmmakers have repeatedly used Plaza de España as a backdrop, including in Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones. Even without Hollywood's endorsement, it remains one of the most beautiful public spaces I have ever visited.
Palacio de San Telmo
Nearby stands the magnificent Palacio de San Telmo. Dating to 1682, the building has served many purposes throughout its long history. It began as a maritime academy and orphanage for sailors before later becoming a palace, hospital, and theological seminary.
The challenge with photographing San Telmo is its sheer size. No single image adequately captures its scale. Standing before it in person is a far more impressive experience than any photograph can convey.
Torre Triana
Not every memorable structure in Seville dates back centuries. Across the river stands Torre Triana, a massive circular government building completed in 1993. When I first saw it from the water, I assumed it was some sort of sports arena. Its unusual design certainly makes it difficult to mistake for a traditional office building.
Basilica de la Macarena
A much more traditional landmark is the Basilica de la Macarena. While the exterior is relatively understated, the basilica houses what many consider Seville's greatest religious treasure: the revered statue of the Virgin of Hope, known simply as La Macarena.
The statue plays a central role during Semana Santa, Seville's famous Holy Week celebrations. Unfortunately, a religious service was underway during my visit, preventing photography inside. Even so, the significance of the site was impossible to miss.
Metropol Parasol
One of the most surprising landmarks in Seville is Metropol Parasol. Known locally as Las Setas de Sevilla, or the Mushrooms of Seville, the structure is the largest freestanding wooden construction in the world. Its four massive parasols resemble giant mushrooms rising above the city skyline.
El Mirador
The structure spans multiple levels and combines architecture, public space, archaeology, and observation decks into a single attraction. Climbing to the top rewards visitors with spectacular panoramic views across Seville.
As the sun began to lower in the sky, I found myself lingering at the viewpoint, taking one final look across the city before returning to Santa Cruz.
Catedral de Sevilla
The following day brought me to one of Seville's greatest landmarks. The Cathedral of Seville is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and one of Spain's most extraordinary architectural achievements.
La Giralda
Its most recognizable feature is La Giralda. Originally constructed between 1184 and 1198 as the minaret of a mosque, the tower predates the cathedral itself. Following the Christian reconquest, the mosque was converted into a cathedral and the minaret transformed into the bell tower we see today.
The name Giralda means "she who turns," referencing the weather vane known as El Giraldillo that crowns the tower. From rooftop terraces, restaurants, plazas, and alleyways throughout Santa Cruz, La Giralda seems to follow you everywhere.
Inside, the cathedral is every bit as impressive as its exterior. The scale is staggering.
The nave stretches farther than any other cathedral in Spain.
More than 200 depictions of saints adorn the interior, ...
... in the form of both statues and reliefs.
Massive pipe organs tower above worshippers.
Approximately 75 stained-glass windows fill the space with colored light.
Everywhere I looked, there was another detail demanding attention. It is no surprise that the cathedral has earned UNESCO World Heritage status.
Directly across from the cathedral sits another UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the highlights of my entire visit.
The Real Alcázar of Seville is not a single palace but rather a collection of palaces built across different historical periods.
The result is a fascinating blend of Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque influences.
Walking through the complex feels like traveling through centuries of Spanish history.
One of the most photographed spaces is the Patio de las Doncellas, or Courtyard of the Maidens.
El Patio del las Doncellas
One of the most photographed spaces is the Patio de las Doncellas, or Courtyard of the Maidens. Its combination of Castilian and Islamic design creates a harmonious elegance that feels timeless.
Patio de las Munecas
My personal favorite, however, was the Patio de las Muñecas. The ceiling immediately captured my attention. Its geometric design reminded me of a giant emerald-cut diamond suspended overhead.
Painting in the House of Trade
Another remarkable space is the House of Trade. Created following Spain's colonization of the Americas, the building served as a center for managing commerce with the New World.
While the paintings are impressive, my attention kept returning to the extraordinary ceiling and tilework.
Salón de Embajadores
The Hall of Ambassadors may be the most spectacular room in the entire complex. Its magnificent dome, completed in 1427, incorporates intricate geometric patterns designed to resemble the night sky. Stepping into the room feels almost like entering a celestial chamber.
Outside, the palace gardens provide yet another reason to visit.
More than 20,000 plants fill the grounds alongside fountains, reflecting pools, pathways, and shaded corners ideal for wandering. Even after several hours, I felt as though I had only scratched the surface.
If the Alcázar looks familiar, there is a reason. The palace has appeared in numerous films and television productions, including Game of Thrones. Its beauty, however, requires no introduction from Hollywood. The Real Alcázar stands comfortably on its own as one of the most remarkable places in Spain.
By the end of my stay, I understood why Seville inspires such devotion from those who visit. The city possesses remarkable landmarks, extraordinary history, and beautiful architecture, but what lingered with me most was something far less tangible.
It was the fragrance of orange blossoms drifting through ancient streets, the glow of evening light on stone façades, and the feeling that around every corner another beautiful discovery was waiting. Seville was my final stop in Spain, and it proved to be a memorable one.
One final article remains before I leave this remarkable country. Stay tuned.
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