The Salton Sea, Salvation Mountain and a Date with a Date
- The Anonymous Hungry Hippopotamus
- Jun 24
- 6 min read
California is the largest economy in the United States, the largest sub-national economy in the world and the fourth largest global economy. In terms of population, California wins the title of the most populated U.S. state, with over 39 million residents, based on recent estimates. California is also geographically, the third largest state in the U.S. For perspective, it is twice as large as Florida and four times the size of New York.
For those reasons, though I have lived in California the overwhelming majority of my life, I am not surprised when I learn new facts about the state, or find places I had never heard of before, much less visited. Earlier this month, I found myself in such a place. Did you know that there is an accidental sea in the middle of the Southern California desert and a man-made mountain nearby? I certainly didn't.

Salton Sea State Recreation Area
Let's start with the sea. Ok, well technically, it isn't a sea, but it's called one. The Salton Sea is actually a large, shallow, highly saline lake, located in Southern California's southern Riverside and northern Imperial counties.

Salton Sea
With a surface area of 343 square miles, the Salton Sea is California's largest lake. The Salton Sea lies 235 feet below sea level and has a salinity level of about 4.4%. While that makes it twice as salty as the Pacific Ocean, it is still nowhere near as salty as the Dead Sea, which boasts a salinity of about 34%. (Read more about my trip to the Dead Sea here.)

Sonny Bono Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge
Like the Dead Sea, the Salton Sea (though for different reasons) is also shrinking. The late Sonny Bono, an American singer, songwriter, actor and politician, was dedicated to preserving the Salton Sea. During his time as mayor of the nearby city of Palm Springs, as well as his time as Congressman for California's 44th district, Bono undertook major conservation efforts to protect the Salton Sea and surrounding area. As a result, the Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge was renamed in his honor, following his untimely death in 1998.

The Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge is a habitat for numerous bird species, some of which are endangered.

Salton Sea
There are hiking trails around the refuge where you will spot these birds and other waterfowl, including geese and ducks.
Salton Sea
How was this landlocked lake formed, I wondered. I found out that the Salton Sea was established in 1905 when floodwater from the Colorado River broke through a barrier and filled a formerly dry lakebed called the Salton Basin.

Salton Sea
With no outflow, the newly formed "sea" only lost water through evaporation or ground seepage.
Bombay Beach

Bombay Beach
In the 1950s and 1960s, the Salton Sea was a very popular vacation destination.

Bombay Beach, an area along the shoreline, was a resort town complete with water sports, fishing, boating, and nightclubs where the famous Frank Sinatra would often perform.

Bombay Beach
Driving through Bombay Beach just a few weeks ago, that seems hard to believe. Today, the area is almost completely deserted due to shrinking water levels that have left behind toxic particulate matter that becomes airborne during high winds and dust storms.

A Bombay Beach Home
I saw very few homes in Bombay Beach and no people whatsoever.

Evidence of residents and their sense of humor about living in such isolation was apparent, however. This sign, posted at the entrance to Bombay Beach reads, "Attention: Nobody in this town has seen the movie Star Wars. Please, no spoilers." I actually laughed out loud.
Salvation Mountain

Salvation Mountain
Just east of the Salton Sea, I came upon Salvation Mountain. Never have I seen anything like this place.

Salvation Mountain
It would have been unique no matter where it was located, but to find it in a remote part of the Southern California desert, caught me totally off guard. Salvation Mountain is the creation of Leonard Knight, who lived in the area until he passed away in 2014.

Salvation Mountain
Knight constructed this mountain, over 28 years of his lifetime, as a tribute to God. The mountain is 50 feet high and 150 feet wide and is made entirely out of local, adobe clay and decorated with donated paint and other items Knight salvaged.

At Salvation Mountain, you will find Bible verses and messages of God's love painted everywhere, from the mountain itself to non-operational cars left on the grounds.

Should you find yourself in the area, I highly encourage a visit to Salvation Mountain. As I said, I haven't seen a place like it anywhere.
East Jesus

East Jesus
Another unique place I found near the Salton Sea is East Jesus. I'm not even sure how to describe it, but I will give it a try.

East Jesus Art Installation
East Jesus is a giant art project in the desert, where people both live and create.

East Jesus Art Installation
I guess you could also describe it as a 30-acre art museum where all of the art is made using reclaimed materials.

East Jesus Art Installation
I was hoping to meet some of the artists, but like the Salton Sea, Bombay Beach and Salvation Mountain, East Jesus looked totally uninhabited, though I knew it was not.

It seemed to me the most popular art installation in East Jesus was The House of Dots, only because everywhere I turned, there were signs advertising it. So I followed them.

First they led me to this place.

Then they led me here, where there was a sign that said House of Dots. Did I find it?

I thought so, but then a little father ahead, there was another House of Dots sign. In the end, I didn't tour The House of Dots, but my journey in search of it was certainly interesting.

East Jesus
There was plenty to see in East Jesus but frankly, it felt creepy because it was seemingly abandoned, the temperature outside was 114 degrees and finally, this "Bye Felisha" sign told me it was time to go.
Indio

Indio
I got in my car to start the two-ish hour drive back to Palm Springs. On the way, I passed through Indio.

Bougainvillea Estate, Indio
Indio is nicknamed "The City of Festivals" because it hosts so many. The most famous is probably Coachella. Another thing that Indio is famous for is dates. Not the kind you go on with someone you fancy. I'm talking about the fruit.
Date Palms
On my way to and from the Salton Sea, I couldn't help noticing the miles and miles of date palms I was passing, a sight I hadn't seen since my trip to Israel. In fact, date palms are native to the Middle East and other arid regions like North Africa.

Date Palms
Date palms weren't introduced to the Coachella Valley until the 1900s.

Since then, cultivation has flourished so much that today, this area supplies 95% of the dates consumed in the United States.

Shields Date Garden
You can purchase some of those dates at Shields Date Garden.

At Shields, you will find just about every assortment of dates imaginable.

Shields Date Farm Theater
You will also find the movie, “The Romance and Sex Life of the Date” playing on repeat in the theater.

Female Date Palms
The evocative title of the movie was inspired by the process necessary to create dates. Because date palms are dioecius (meaning they are either male or female), pollen from the male tree has to be transferred to the female tree. When the male pollen reaches the female flowers, the ovules are fertilized and dates are formed. (You can see the dates hanging from the female palms in the photo above.)

Date Shakes
If all that talk about date palm sex gets you hot and bothered, or you are too warm from the scorching desert heat, you can order one of Shields' famous date shakes to cool off. I suggest asking for a sample of the date ice cream first, to make sure it is to your liking, before committing to a whole shake.
That does it for my desert adventure to and from the Salton Sea. I'm excited to continue discovering more, in my home state of California. Feel free to send suggestions of some of your favorite hidden gems.
Oh, you never mentioned the smell of the sea—it is a very interesting place isn’t it!