Puerto Rico Part 4: Best Upscale Restaurants in San Juan

If you find yourself hungry in San Juan, Puerto Rico, you will find options for every price point, occasion and just about every craving. While there, I enjoyed fusion, local and international dishes aplenty. I'll start by sharing my favorite upscale restaurants and what I ate at each.

Marmalade

Marmalade

My first meal in Puerto Rico was at Marmalade, located in the capital city's Old San Juan neighborhood. Of the restaurants I visited, Marmalade was the most high-end. Think sexy, nightclub vibe with pretty cocktails and even prettier food plating.

In addition, like many fine dining restaurants, Marmalade does not offer a la carte options. Instead, diners can choose from one of the pre fixe menus. I chose the most abbreviated tasting menu and left satisfied.

Popcorn Shrimp

My tasting experience began with popcorn shrimp presented in a very unique and innovative way. The sizable shrimp were marinated in cilantro and garlic and then grilled. They were then lacquered with anejo tequila and placed atop poblano guacamole. Separating each of the three shrimp were heirloom, ancho chili-spiced popcorn kernels and lime wedges.

Curried Golden Lentil Meatballs

Next, I was served vegetarian meatballs made of curried lentils rolled in organic sunflower seeds. The "meat"balls were served on a bed of local eggplant with homemade yogurt and pomegranate sauce.

Housemade Truffle Rigatoni

Those were followed by a pasta dish of house made, truffle rigatoni.

The narrow, pasta tubes were tossed with charred Brussels sprouts, local pork and parmesan-truffle sauce. The dish was finished with a generous amount of shaved, black truffles.

Pacific Sea Bass

The main course was a pan fried sea bass that was served with aromatic bamboo rice and pineapple and persimmon relish. All of that was drenched in a lovely, lemongrass-coconut, water emulsion.

Blueberries Bourbon and Bacon

Dessert was the most creative dish of the evening, in my opinion. The fresh, oven baked organic blueberries were wrapped in a buttery Danish roulade, encircled with a bourbon infused custard sauce. Atop the blueberry roulade was a scoop of blueberry ice cream, a puff of blueberry foam and a piece of crispy, maple smoked bacon.

Celeste

Celeste

My favorite upscale restaurant that I visited in Puerto Rico was Celeste, an unassuming wine and seafood bar located in San Juan's Puerta de Tierra neighborhood. This place is a local favorite and was suggested to me on at least six different occasions by San Juan residents. These are the places I prioritize dining at when traveling.

Mahi Mahi Crudo

I started my meal at Celeste with the evening's special, a crudo made of fresh mahi mahi marinated in aji dulce nuoc cham, lemongrass, pink ginger and hot chilis. To balance the heat, it was served with ribbons of marinated sweet onion.

Squid Ink Risotto

For my entree, I ordered the risotto, which celebrated all things squid. The arborio rice was seasoned with squid ink, giving it both creamy and briny elements. The risotto was then topped with lightly fried rings of crunchy calamari, lending another texture that balanced the dish wonderfully.

Fried Shrimp

With that, I fully intended to complete my meal, but the chef insisted I taste one more of the restaurant's most popular dishes and put two complimentary fried shrimp on my plate. These crispy crustaceans, marinated in black pepper and garlic, dredged in a little bit of flour and then flash fried, were my favorite items of the evening.

I fully intended to return to Celeste for another meal, to enjoy a full order of the fried shrimp, as well as to try other menu items, but never got around to it. I'll be back again when I am next in San Juan though, because both the food and the wine at Celeste were amazing.

La Lanterna

La Lanterna

If you are craving Italian food in San Juan, Puerto Rico, I suggest La Lanterna by Franco Seccarelli, an Italian born chef, who has been living in Puerto Rico for at least three decades now.

This restaurant has the most romantic open air courtyard and garden, tucked away behind a beautiful, Spanish colonial building.

Fusilli con Bottarga

On this particular evening, I got to share my meal with a local chef who recommended La Lanterna. We shared the evening's special, which was fusilli in a butter sauce, topped with bottarga and breadcrumbs. Bottarga is dried mullet roe, usually formed into blocks and commonly shaved over Italian dishes such as pasta.

Tagliolini al Ragu di Vitello e Fave

Next, we ordered a La Lanterna staple, the tagliolini. The pasta was served with a veal ragu that incorporated a surprising ingredient - fava beans. My palate would not have registered the impartation of flavor from the favas had I not been told they were in the sauce, but what they contributed created a yummy and balanced finished product.

La Casita Blanca

La Casita Blanca

I'll admit that La Casita Blanca, which means "The Little White House," does not qualify as an upscale restaurant, but there is something so very unique about it that it doesn't fit into a casual category either. This outstanding restaurant is located in a picturesque 1920's house.

That fact is represented inside the restaurant as well, where the interior aesthetic is more home than restaurant, and has a delightful, old school vibe.

La Casita Blanca is the quintessential Puerto Rican fonda, or family run restaurant, serving authentic, local cuisine that is absolutely delicious.

All of these characteristics, including the cozy, indoor dining room with a tree growing in its center, led to La Casita Blanca winning Puerto Rico's first James Beard "America's Classics" award.

Tamarind Juice

My meal at La Casita Blanca began with a cup of ice cold tamarind juice. (For more about this fruit, see my last post.)

Sopa de Plátano

Next, came two complimentary items that are served prior to every meal. First, was the plantain soup, which had a somewhat creamy texture and mild flavor.

Bacalaíto

Next, was the bacalaíto, a crispy codfish fritter. Truthfully, I could have easily eaten nearly a dozen of these, made this my meal, and left completely satisfied. They were that good! Sadly, that wasn't an option, which I know because I actually asked. Lol.

Garlic Shrimp

My entree was the garlic shrimp made with tail-on shrimp cooked in a garlic butter sauce. The shrimp was served with arroz con habichuelas, or rice with black beans, a classic Puerto Rican dish.

Casita Blanca Hot Sauce

Enjoy your food as is or, if you love spice like I do, add some of Casita Blanca's pique, or hot sauce.

Chichaito

Prior to leaving, every guest is served a shot of chichaito. Chichaito is made with anisette and white rum, and at La Casita Blanca, it is served with coffee beans. I was told that the restaurant offers the shot to guests as a symbol of health, prosperity and love.

I wish you all the same until my next post, where I will share my favorite casual dining spots in San Juan and more about traditional, Puerto Rican cuisine.