Best Things to Do in Accra: History, Independence and Modern Ghana
- The Anonymous Hungry Hippopotamus
- May 5
- 6 min read
Ghana, or The Republic of Ghana, is a country situated on Africa's west coast. Some interesting facts that I learned about this lovely country are:
1) The word "ghana" means "warrior king" in Mande, a West African language used throughout the region today.
2) Though surrounded by francophone countries, Ghana's official language is English.
3) The currency used in Ghana is called the "cedi" which means "cowry shell." These, small, snail shells were once used as currency throughout West Africa.
Jubilee House
4) The equivalent of the White House in Ghana is the Jubilee House. It serves as the office and residence of current president, John Mahama.
The capital of Ghana is Accra, located on the southeastern coast of the country along the Gulf of Guinea.
There is a rhythm to Accra that you feel. It’s in the pulse of traffic weaving through the city, the sound of music spilling out onto the streets and the energy of a place that is constantly evolving while remaining deeply rooted in its identity. Modern Accra is not just a capital city; it’s a reflection of Ghana’s independence, creativity, and forward momentum.
Independence Square
Ghana Coat of Arms
The first place I visited in Accra was Independence Square. The square, constructed in 1961, contains monuments to Ghana's struggle for independence from British colonial rule, which it achieved under revolutionary leader, and Ghana's first president, Kwame Nkrumah.
Black Star Gate
Arguably the most prominent feature in Independence Square is the Black Star Gate. Kwame Nkrumah commissioned the gate to celebrate the independence of the new country of Ghana and to mark the visit of Queen Elizabeth II. You'll notice the black star at the top center of the gate. The star is inspired by Marcus Garvey’s movement and represents African unity and the resilience of the Ghanaian people.
Independence Flame and Independence Statue
Also located in Independence Square is the Eternal Flame of National Liberation, first lit by Kwame Nkrumah and still burning today The statue behind the flame is a memorial to the soldiers who lost their lives in the fight for independence.
Independence Arch
Just across the square is the Independence Arch, looming large against the backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean. The square can seat 30,000 people, and though it was empty on the day I visited, you will find it packed every year on March 6th, with people celebrating at Ghana's Independence Day parade.
Not far from Independence Square is a statue celebrating the Big Six, or the Founding Fathers of Ghana, who were all part of the United Gold Coast Convention (UGCC). They include: Joseph Boakye ('J.B.') Danquah; Emmanuel Obetsebi-Lamptey; Ebenezer Ako-Adjei; William Ofori Atta; Edward Akufo-Addo and Dr. Kwame Nkrumah.
Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park
Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park
In downtown Accra, you can find Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, solely dedicated to the contributions of the prominent leader. The signage on the outside of the building reads, "Osagyefo," a title given to Nkrumah which means "Redeemer" in Fante. The park is located on the former British colonial polo grounds.
Inside the park is a statue dedicated to Dr. Kwame Nkrumah. The statue has been erected in the exact location where Dr. Nkrumah declared Ghana’s independence from British colonial rule on March 6, 1957. The statue depicts Dr. Nkrumah with his hand symbolically pointing forward and suggestive of the remarks he made in that inaugural speech stating, "We face neither East nor West; we face forward."
Leading up to the statue and mausoleum, is a long pathway with springs on either side. Each spring has statuettes of flute blowers, that welcome visitors.
Directly behind the statue is a mausoleum constructed entirely of Italian marble, where Dr. Nkrumah is buried. At the top of the mausoleum is a black star to symbolize unity, a value that Nkrumah sought to achieve throughout the African continent.
Dr. Nkrumah was buried thrice after his death. His first burial took place in Guinea, where he died. His body was subsequently exhumed and returned to Ghana to be buried in Nkrumah's hometown of Nkroful. In 1992, 22 years after his second burial, his body was moved to its current location at the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park in Accra.
Adjacent to Dr. Nkrumah's resting place are the remains of the First Lady of Ghana, Fathia Nkrumah, Dr. Kwame Nkrumah's wife.
This art installation features pictures of Dr. Nkrumah over the years during which time he became a global symbol for black liberation.
The grounds are filled with famous quotes from the late, Osagyefo Kwame Nkrumah, including the one pictured above.
You can also find pictures of Dr. Nkrumah with other famous leaders including Jawarharlal Nehru, Mao Zedong, Fidel Castro, Nikita Khrushchev, and John F. Kennedy.
Kennedy counted Nkrumah as a friend and gifted him this automobile, which is also located at the memorial park.
Also on the grounds are the remains of a vandalized statue of Kwame Nkrumah that used to stand in front of the Parliament House. As you can see, it is missing a left arm and head as a result of an angry mob attack. The mob attack and subsequent military coup came after Nkrumah changed Ghana's constitution, making himself President for life.
The head of the statue which was missing, was recovered 43 years later, and now sits adjacent the body.
This mango tree, located in the gardens, is another tribute to Nkrumah by a famous leader. The tree was planted in November, 1991 by the late, great Nelson Mandela, when he visited Ghana.
I made my way to my next destination, passing street stalls selling just about everything. Something I love about West Africa is that the streets are teeming with life as they are in so many African and Asian cities I have visited.
W .E. B. Du Bois Centre for Pan African Culture
My final stop before leaving Accra was at the W.E.B. Du Bois Centre for Pan African Culture, a bungalow, made of stone and timber, where Du Bois lived from 1961 until his death in 1963. The simplicity of the structure stands in quiet contrast to the enormity of his legacy.
After Du Bois’ death in 1963, and on the eve of the March on Washington in the United States, the bungalow was eventually transformed into a museum and memorial center. Though dedicated to Du Bois and his former home, the museum also celebrates the accomplishments of other Africans and African- Americans who contributed to global movements for freedom and advancement, such as Martin Luther King Jr. and Malcolm X.
Du Bois did not come to Ghana by accident. He was invited by Kwame Nkrumah who shared Du Bois’ vision of Pan-Africanism—the idea that people of African descent, across continents, share a common history and destiny.
Du Bois moved to Ghana in his nineties to work on an ambitious and unfinished project: the Encyclopedia Africana (often referred to as the Encyclopedia of Africanism).
This was intended to be a comprehensive record of the history, culture, and achievements of African people worldwide. It was a monumental scholarly effort that reflected Du Bois' lifelong mission.
Before moving to Ghana, Du Bois had already lived an extraordinary intellectual life, becoming the first African American to earn a Ph.D. from Harvard University, co-founding the NAACP and serving as editor of The Crisis, one of the most influential publications on Black life in America.
Du Bois was not just a writer. He was a historian, sociologist, activist, and one of the most important intellectual figures of the 20th century.
Du Bois Luggage Trunk
Du Bois traveled the world shaping and sharing ideas in countries far beyond Ghana and the United States. He was a key participant in a global conversation about identity, justice, and unity.
Shirley Graham Du Bois
By the time he moved to Ghana, Du Bois was accompanied by his second wife, Shirley Graham Du Bois, a writer, composer, and activist in her own right. She was deeply involved in her husband's work and remained committed to preserving his legacy after his death. The home they shared in Accra reflects not just his life, but their intellectual, political, and personal partnership.
One of the most striking symbolic elements you may notice is the web motif on the ceiling of the museum. W.E.B. are the initials of Du Bois, but spelled as a word, a "web" is also interpreted as representing the interconnectedness of the global network of the African diaspora. The web stands for the idea that people, histories, and struggles are linked across borders and echoes Du Bois’ lifelong belief that the experiences of Black people around the world are not isolated. They are part of a shared, interwoven story.
What I found most moving about this museum was that it reminded me that even the most world-changing ideas can come from a quiet room, a simple desk, and a life devoted to thinking deeply about the things that actually matter.
During my time in Accra, I passed this mural several times. It serves as a "visual timeline," connecting modern residents of Accra with their ancestors and the complex history of the city and country's past. Up next I'll share about the sites I visited in Accra that helped me better understand Ghana's pre-independence history in a deeper way.
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